Herzlich willkommen

[Helmut Schmitz]

Hello Andrey,
if the chain is worn and therefore too long, the timing marking on the sprocket does not match

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello Helmut,

I was able to rotate the engine till TDC 1-st cylinder (6 Gang and some effort ). The mark of camshaft seems to be almost there, but the problem is, that the mark is behind 'the spoke' of timing gear, instead of opening ...like into Jurgen picture. So I can see the mark just with the phone switch to front camera...technology..ha-ha-ha. I wonder is this normal???

thanks

[Jürgen-Fahlbusch]

Hey Andrey,

i think this is not normal.
The timing gear is normally fixed in postion by a small feather on the camshaft. By this the timing gear can only mounted in one fixed position and I don't think that the delevoper designedthe marking behind a spoke

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello Jurgen,

Seems that I should remove camshaft timing gear...damm....

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

I unscrew the bolt of camshaft and seems to be ok...the key is there...I really don't want to remove the sprocket.

0-02-05-1cfe9068b4389ac51425b73bc263f76fd2dccb5abd9bc8b9bec44af8b4932090_8c1b4fa861df592b.jpg (264.18 KiB) 2089 mal betrachtet

The broken timing chain guide...It\s really rare and at least 200 Euro with long delivery, so I made one from Polyamid

IMG_0263.jpg (56.37 KiB) 2089 mal betrachtet

IMG_0260.jpg (73.54 KiB) 2089 mal betrachtet

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

Anyway, something is knocking inside the valve train.... I must remove the valve cover again and check the valves again.... or something else. Pity thing is, that I must drain the coolant every time in order to remove the cover

Thanks

[Andrey Nikolov]

hello all,

I find this in other tread



so taming mark can be behind timing gear spoke.

More disturbing is this

tensioner.mp4

(714.16 KiB) 116-mal heruntergeladen

Normal???

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello,

I\ve opened the tensioner, looks like this



accept ..ball is missing. I've cut an old bearing and used a ball to complete the system. Unfortunately the plastic cap is very tight and almost pressed fitting. Additional friction is added from inner surface of piston (rauf whit mark of drill bit) , which result in absent of movement of the ball. I reassembled the tensioner and valve cover, start the engine, but still there is knocking sound. Next step will be to make a new end cap with inner thread and to make fully mechanical tensioner.

Thanks

P.S and I still have not idea how this tensioner works...ball and cap are some kind of one way valve, the oil should come from some kind of oil storage/valley above the unit and somehow pumped thru tensioner

[d0b]

I`m not sure if ist helps, but if this is a M180.952 this is the spare parts lists of the parts on your picture.

Here`s another Thread which is about the M180 chain tensioner, maybe here`s a hint for you?

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

I've opened one more time the tensioner, replaced the ball with smaller one 4,5mm and it seems now tensioner works, It's interesting that the tensioner needs just 3 manual pumps and is filled immediately.

Thanks

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

I'm back...with new side project. I have done couple EFI conversion on bikes (most of them turbo)...last year I made Golf 2 turbo 4x4 2 liter....and so weiter project, from whom I save some of the parts from original 1.8mi engine. I know it's a wild guess, but I wonder ...can I put Mono Jetronic from Golf 2 to Unimog....just for the fun. And I did it. For my surprise it works amazingly well. Check it out

mono jetronik.jpg (266.49 KiB) 1372 mal betrachtet

0-02-05-63391c94b3ee45a7ed7f2909e0eac71c2166fe0d5e9a7491c2adc654519024b1_6699e369eba2c73a.mp4

(912.51 KiB) 70-mal heruntergeladen

Test will be continued

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

I made some tests tonight...seems to be OK.

Engine starts a bit slower compared with the carb...maybe one rotation more, but there is no annoying play with the choke and throttle., stable idle .....welcome to the late 80-ties

On 2-nd low gear I manage to go over some curbs on my street on idle - so idle is pretty stable. There is a small problem, as ECU take signal for RPM's from Verteiler and originally receives 2 pulses per crank rotation, but now there is 3. So engine probably idles at 750 rpm, but the ECU 'see' 1000rpm.

Which is ok, but the alternator makes just 12,5-12,8 Volts at this engine speed, so no normal charge. If I able to fight my laziness I'll make an smaller pulley for alternator.

Next step is to connect Lambda sensor. I bought a new one - 1 wire proper for this ECU , but probably for the test I'll connect Wideband sensor... I have some old PLX controller (left over for some old project) with display and 0-1V output.

If there is some normal AFR readings....Mono Jetronic will stay in the Unimog.

Please comment!

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

I can't find intake cap for Jetronic with right orientation..golf or audi. So I made a custom one today.

IMG_0268.jpg (51.97 KiB) 1164 mal betrachtet

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[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello All,

Made a new bracket for throttle cable, add spring to pedal. Here is video with cold start ...cold...30 deg outside.

video.mp4

(3.92 MiB) 76-mal heruntergeladen

[Andrey Nikolov]

Hello,

I drove truck around my house this days...geht's gut, Tonight I decide to 'shoot' the ignition advance and I see 0deg on idle. Okey....so I play with Verteiler and made it 15 deg, but adjusting/fixing bracket should be rotate a little in order to fix the new position. So I put out the Verteiler unit adjusted the bracket and ...here we go again.....1 cylinder already not there...I should rearange all cables with one place again.

WTF...is going on? I have the feeling that every time when I remove the Verteiler, the drive for timing is rotate some how with 1 tooth???

Any suggestions?